Los Cocuyos in Centro Mexico City serves many variations of tacos mostly unknown to the gringo world. Variations that gringos might be hesitant to consume like brain, eyeballs, tongue.
The late Anthony Bourdain who had a taste for the exotic, called Los Cucoyos his favorite taqueria in Mexico City . It become even more popular among tourists after it was featured the Netflix series Taco Chronicles, Season 2, Episode 1, titled Suadero.
In November of 2021, I ventured to Los Cucoyos to give it a try. The actual place has no seating and is just a hole in the wall. In front was a vat a boiling oil where the various cow and pig parts were cooked together. The line stretched a quarter block away. It took 20 minutes before I could give my order to a server who was furiously writing them down.
The orders were then shouted to the main cook who would quickly retrieve the proper cut of meat or organ out the bubbling vat, chop it up and toss on a tortilla, then adding the requested standard accompaniment of onion, guacamole and/or salsa. His techniques wasted no time, honed by years of repetition.
Being less than adventurous, I ordered a Suadero taco and a Campechano taco, avoiding tacos with the offal parts that are mainly destined for pet food here.
Suadero tacos at Los Cocuyos are a very fatty taco made with a pork cut from somewhere between the belly and the leg. The Campechano tacos varies depending on the taqueria, at Los Cuyoyos uses a mixture of Longanza sausage and belly pork.
Complimented by a Coca Cola, the tacos were indeed tasty and someday on a future trip to CDMX, I might even try brain or tongue, but I stop at eyeballs.
