Hey witch doctor, give us the magic words
All right, you go ooh ee ooh ah ah ting tang walla walla bing bang
All right
When I was in Colombia in March 2021, I purchased a crystal necklace for my daughter. The design reflected the indigenous heritage of the craftsman Ipushima Mauricio, who was originally from Leticia, Colombia.
https://www.instagram.com/mao.arte.milenario/
I became intrigued by the idea of the earthly spiritual connection of the indigenous cultures that have been passed down for 1000’s of years. It was why I researched and ultimately choose Leticia as one of my destinations for my next Colombian trip.
In August of 2021, I made it to Leticia, joined by my Medellin amigas, Vane and Dina.
Located on the furthest southeastern point of Colombia, Leticia lies on the Amazon River bordered by both the Brazil and Peru. The only way to get to Leticia is by a boat on the Amazon River or one of the twice daily flights out of Bogota, Colombia.
One of my goals on the trip was to visit an indigenous tribal village and hopefully meet a shaman. On our first day, Vane checked with the hotel’s front desk and was given the number of a tour company that offered guides to take you through the jungle to such a village.
One hour later a taxi arrived to take us to the storefront of tour company. After a little haggling over the additional price for a bilingual guide, we quickly headed to our drop-off point 20 minutes away.
We were greeted by two additional guides who were equipped with shiny machetes.
After being fed fresh pineapple, we were then warmly greeted by a 83 year old women who happened to be the wife of the village shaman who we would later meet.
After being given a large bottle of water, we headed down a narrow road to the entrance of the jungle path.
That water was much needed as the temperature was around 96 degrees with 80% humidity. The canopy of the jungle did offer a little relief from the heat for what should have been a hour and half hike.
Much of the jungle is under water during the rainy season when the creeks that are fed from the Amazon would overflow. This time of year, the ground were still saturated on parts of the trail. This required the placement of logs and boards to be placed along the path, otherwise it would be nearly impossible to navigate the muddy bog.
On accidentally stepping off the wooden path my shoe sank a half a foot into the wet ground.
Walking through the jungle in the heat takes it toll but the required concentration to watch where you step only added to the exhaustion.
We then came to a point on the trail where I refused to go any further. It was a single log crossing 15 foot above a mostly dry creek bed,
Being exhausted and still feeling the affects of a head cold I had a few weeks previously, I knew any attempt on crossing would be disastrous.
I was ready to head back to the hotel.
One of the guides, Miguel offered to lead me to another path but it would add 30 minutes for me to complete the journey. I hesitantly agreed.
Vane and Dina continued with the other guides, while Miguel using his machete carved out a path through the jungle to what he considered a less precarious creek crossings.
Instead of a single log, this crossing was constructed with single 6×2 board with a makeshift flimsy handrail on one side. With me suffering slight vertigo it was still scary as hell being 15 feet above the mostly dry creek bed. Miguel reminded me to take it despacio (slowly) and breath.
After what was now a 2 hour hike, I finally reached the village.
I was greeted by my fellow explorers who were now relaxing on a large thatch covered wooden deck. We were in introduced to a couple of other travellers, Calvin from Toronto and his girlfriend Jenna from Bogota.
Exhausted, I quickly found a hammock to start my recovery with some concern of the return trip. I thought of the possible scenario of becoming a tribal member and staying here.
After a period of relaxation time we were escorted to the main tribal meeting area, a large hut, to meet the shaman of the tribe and his apprentice.
In Spanish, the apprentice explained many of the cultural and spiritual aspects of this tribe, the Wayruyu.
These traditions have been passed down verbally for 1000’s of years.
He described the use of tobacco and coca leaves in daily ceremonial meetings. Granulated tobacco was shared to be rubbed on our gums, no coca.
We were then given the chance to ask the shaman questions, our bilingual guide William patiently translated.
There were hesitant to answer when I asked about the tribes origin story as it was a sacred.
I asked about the pandemic. I was told shortly after it started the elders went deep into the jungle and to ask mother earth for the healing of the people of the world.
I asked the shaman to give me strength for my return trip. I was told they were watching over us the whole time we were on the trail. I thanked them and I now felt some reassurance I might make it back to the material world.
It was then time for lunch of banana leaf wrapped fish from the Amazon River, plantains, rice, salad with local juices of exotic fruit. We were joined at lunch by a beautiful macaw.
After lunch some of the villagers showed us how to make a bracelet from the strands of a palm tree. William spent a few minutes showing me how to weave the strands, after struggling I got into a mental groove and completed my bracelet first. It would remain on my wrist for months after the trip as a reminder of this incredible experience.
We were taken to a nearby creek to either fish for piranha or go swimming. I didn’t ask the obvious question of the absurdity of mixing these two activities.
Apparently only under certain conditions will piranha attack humans. Trustingly, I choose swimming in the refreshing creek but the occasional nibble by the passing piranha did startle me a few times.
The air cooled somewhat in the late afternoon for the trek back through the jungle. This plus knowing the shaman was looking over me made the trip easier.
Still it was a wonderful site to see our taxi who had come to met us at the trailhead.
I even ran the last 50 yards, joyful that this aging gringo survived the journey.
As we were about to leave, the old woman from the village stopped us. She come over to my window and after a few words that I did not understand, she presented me with two teeth of some Amazonian creature.
It was the perfect ending to an incredible journey.
In gratitude of sharing this experience with me, I presented one of the teeth to my travel companions, Vane and Dina.
We were soon back at hotel exhausted, a late siesta was needed and well deserved.