Smooth sailing yesterday! I was picked up at my condo and shuttled to the ferry for a relaxed two-hour ride on calm seas.
By 11:00 am, Koh Phi Phi Don’s docks were packed as our ferry and several others unloaded a flood of overnight and day-trippers onto this small, iconic island.
Koh Phi Phi Don, in the heart of the Andaman Sea, is actually made up of two islands connected by a narrow isthmus. This stretch of flat land, known as Tonsai village is packed with everything a tourist could need—hotels, restaurants, bars, dive shops, spas, money exchanges, cannabis stores, and of course, a handful of 7/11s—all within a quick 10-minute walk.
With no cars and only one motorbike spotted (someone important?), the island might seem peaceful, but don’t let that fool you! As I made my way to my hotel, I found myself in “rush hour” with tourists and locals navigating the narrow pathways. Local delivery workers maneuvered push carts the size of refrigerators, loaded with luggage or supplies, weaving through the crowd repeating an unknown word—maybe “beep beep” in Thai. A few close calls had me thinking Koh Phi Phi could use a donation of bike bells.
Exploring the criss-crossing paths was fun at first, but the downside of Koh Phi Phi’s popularity soon became apparent. The island is overcrowded, and the infrastructure is clearly strained—an overtaxed sewage system was just one apparent and smelly sign of that.
Mass tourism is leaving its mark here, as it is worldwide, with some locals raising concerns over its impact. In Thailand, Maya Bay nearby is one example of change; the number of visitors is capped each day, swimming is restricted to protect coral, and the bay is closed for part of the year to allow for recovery.
Limited tourism could be the future norm for many popular spots around the world. With so much uncertainty about the future—especially back home in the U.S.—tonight will be one for reflection, whether I’m celebrating or drowning my sorrows at a bar, right here in the middle of the Andaman Sea.